Travel> Theyyam - The traditional art and dance form of North Kerala

Image1: Dressed as a Goddess

Image2: Vibrant colours

Image3: The procession during the Theyyam

Image4: Balancing huge head gear and dancing the dance of the Gods

Image5: A theyyam artist wears his head gear

Image copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi, for Yatra.com

A trip to North Kerala would be incomplete without witnessing the traditional dance form Theyyam. Theyyam is derived from the word ‘Deyvam’, which means God in Malayalam, and is a Hindu religious rite that is passed down from one generation to another.

It is performed to celebrate a good harvest, ward off evil and bring good fortune and is revered across all the Hindu castes as everyone seeks blessings from the Theyyam. Usually held between December to May every year, Theyyam is a dramatic dance form, infused with Kalaripayattu and worshiping of specific deities.

The locals welcome a Theyyam into their homes to bless their home and loved ones. The Theyyam artist will wear huge head gear, loud costumes and paint their faces, mostly in red. Theyyam also stands for religious harmony as some of the deities are Mappila Muslim protagonists.

Travel> Bekal Fort

Image1: Walking up the ramp

Image 2: Frozen in time

Image 3: The gate ruins of Bekal

Image 4: Inside the fort

Image 5: Walking inside the fort

Image 6: Walking up the fort at Bekal

Image 7: View of the Arabian Sea from the top

Image 8: View from the Bekal Fort

Image 9: Inside the premises of Bekal Fort

Image 10: Restoration in progress at Bekal

Image copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi

Constructed between 1645 and 1660, Bekal Fort is one of the biggest forts in Kerala spreading across 40 acres. This sea fortress is located in Kasargod district of North Kerala, around 49kms south of Mangalore and 93kms north of Kannur.

Built with laterite stones this fort is of prime archeological importance in the country. Bekal Fort is recognized under the Ancient Monuments and Archeological Sites Remains Act 1958 (24 of 1958).

Bekal owes its history to the 12th century Mahodayapuram Perumals who were succeeded by the Ikkeri Nayakas who later fortified Bekal during the 16th century. Sivappa Nayaka of Bednore (Ikkeri Nayakas) had built Bekal Fort during his reign from 1645-1660. By 1763 Bekal Fort was captured by Hyder Ali and after the defeat of Tipu Sultan in 1799, the East India Company took over the fort.

Bekal Fort is known to have secret passage ways that helped the armies to enter or return into the fort. A popular spot for local film shootings, Bekal is undergoing major restoration work in its premises. It is highly advisable to visit Bekal in the morning hours before 12 noon or in the early evenings post 4 pm as it can get very hot and there aren't many trees to offer a much needed shade to escape the Kerala sun.

Timings to visit Bekal is between 8:00 am to 5:30 pm. The entrance of the gate will remain open from 8:00 to 6:00 pm. Entrance fee is Rs. 5/- per head for Indian tourists and Rs. 100/- for foreign tourists. For still camera and video camera they charge a fee of Rs. 25/-.

There's Nirvana Luxury Cottages close to the fort with an in-house multi-cuisine restaurant Kia-Ora (Phone: 0467-2272007/ 2272900. Email: nirvanabekalfort@gmail.com).

After a visit to Bekal Fort, just 7kms away you can visit The Lalit Spa and Resort and enjoy a healthy and hearty meal. As a first timer, it maybe difficult to spot this resort, so it is advisable that you keep driving towards Mangalore, on the same road keeping the railway tracks to your right. Once you spot a nursing medical college (a glass building), keep a look out on your left for a sign board which says 'Lalit Spa and Resort - 3kms' and follow the arrows as you drive through the interiors. The roads are yet to be developed, but don't let that deter you from driving up till the end. The Lalit Spa is located at a dead end and you can't miss it thanks to the red arrows pointing to the direction. A visit to the resort is a must especially after a hot and sunny day spent at Bekal Fort.

Travel> Arakkal Museum

Image 1: Exhibits at the Arakkal Museum

Image 2: The Arakkal Geneology

Image 3: A peek outside the window from the Arakkal museum

Image 4: Geneology of the Arakkal Family

Image 5: Cabinet

Image 6: Exhibits at the museum

Image 7: Furniture at the museum

Image 8: Welcome to the Arakkal Museum

Image 9: The Arakkal Crest

Image 10: Arakkal Beebi and Sulthan Ali Raja

Image copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi, for Yatra.com

The Arakkal Ali Rajas the only Muslim royal family of Kerala came into power after the reign of the Kolathiri Rajas in 1772.

Dedicated to the only Muslim royal family in Kerala, the Arakkal Museum is the only part of the Arakkalkettu (Arakkal Palace). The Government of Kerala has converted the durbar in the palace into a museum. It was inaugurated as early as in July 2005 and is still owned by the Arakkal Family Trust and not under the Archaeological Survey of India.

One of the earliest records of the Arakkal family has been traced as early as 12th century AD. Unlike most matrilineal dynasties in Kerala, the Arakkals were led by the senior most members, irrespective of their gender. If the ruler was male, he was referred to as Ali Raja and if the ruler was a lady, she was referred to as Arakkal Beebi. The Arakkal Ali Rajas the only Muslim royal family of Kerala came into power after the reign of the Kolathiri Rajas in 1772.

Arakkal - the island of Minicoy which is the southernmost island of the Lakshadweep, owes its heritage to the Arakkal Ali Rajas, which is now a part of the Maldives. The Ali Rajas surrendered the island to the British upon returning back to independent India.

The Kolathiri Rajas and the Arakkals helped the Portuguese when they arrived in the Malabar region in the 15th century. After 100 years of existence, the Dutch sold the St. Angelo Fort to the Arakkal for a princely sum of one lakh rupees in 1770 AD. The Arakkals gained importance in the Malabar region after they secured fort and their association with the kings of Mysore.

But with the arrival of the British, everything changed. From start they were against the kings of Mysore and following the first war of Mysore in 1790 the British General Abercomby defeated the Arakkal family and seized the St. Angelo Fort. Since the Arakkals wanted peace, an agreement was made between the British and the Arakkals. They received the title of Sultan during the 15th century, and their dynasty came to an end by August 1947.

Dedicated to the only Muslim royal family in Kerala, the Arrakkal Museum is the only part of the Arakkalkettu (Arakkal Palace). The Government of Kerala has converted the durbar in the palace into a museum. It was inaugurated as early as in July 2005 and is still owned by the Arakkal Family Trust and not under the Archaeological Survey of India.

With an entrance fee of Rs.5 and camera fee Rs.50, a trip to Arakkal Museum is a must. At the reception, you can purchase a copy of ‘The Ali Rajas of Cannanore’ by Dr. KKN Kurup (under the Publication Division University of Calicut), priced at Rs. 100.

There are quite a few items on display that reveal the nature and the lifestyle of the Arakkals. Archaic telephones, telescopes are the highlight of the museum. As you enter you will be welcomed with the genealogy of the Arakkals which is quite interesting.

How to reach Arakkal Museum

The Arakkal Museum is situated right opposite to a petrol pump. It is not very far from the St. Angelo Fort. You can take an auto to the museum as it is located on the main road with a petrol pump right across the street.

Travel> St. Angelo Fort, Kannur

Image 1: Inside the St. Angelo Fort

Image2: King of its castle

Image 3: Where time stood still

Image 4: The Archeological Survey of India office at St. Angelo Fort

Image 5: Fortified in time

Image 6: The sea fortress - St. Angelo Fort

Image 7: View of the Mapila Bay

Image 8: The Canons facing the sea

Image 9: The stables for the horses

Image 10: St. Angelo Fort, Kannur

Image copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi, for Yatra.com

St. Angelo’s Fort was one of the first Portuguese settlements on the Malabar shores. This seashore fort is situated on the cliff next to the Mapila Bay, extending into the Arabian Sea (also referred to as the Lakshadweep Sea). St. Angelo’s Fort has been declared to be of national importance under the Ancient Monuments and Archeological Sites and Remains Act, 1958.

The King of Kolathunad (an ancient monarchy in Kerala, which included present day Kannur and Kasargod) had offered this site to build a factory at Kannur in order to build trading relations with the Portuguese. Vasco Da Gama, the Portuguese navigator arrived to the Malabar Coast first in 1498 AD in order to strengthen the trading relations with the Kolathiri Rajas.

In the 1500s, Pedro Alvares Cabral made adjoining installations for the ware house in the factory. By 1501 AD, AD Joao D’ Nova, set up a small factory in Kannur and returned to Portugal. By the second visit in 1502 AD, Vasco Da Gama constructed a palisade with the permission of the Kolathiri Raja and it was completed in 1507 AD and the fort came to be known as St. Angelo. Later, this fort became an important military location to protect the west coast.

In 1663 the Dutch captured the fort from the Portuguese and made modifications to the fort. After which, the fort was sold to Ali Rajas of Cannanore in 1772 AD. The fort was captured by the British in 1790 AD and extended the fort to make it an important military fort on the Malabar Coast.

The St. Angelo Fort owes its architecture to the Portuguese, Dutch and the British as early as 16th century AD. Built with laterite (an iron rich red soil typically found in South India), with high ramparts on a rocky promontory surrounded by the sea on all sides and a dry moat runs from the land from one side of the fort.

During the Portuguese period, to isolate the fort from the mainland, a water moat would run from east to west connecting the Arabian Sea to the Mapila Bay. The Portuguese built most of the buildings within the fort like chapels, house of mercy prison, offices and amenities. The horse stables and the ammunition house were built by the Dutch within the fort. The main gate towards the land was protected by bastions.

The epitaph of Susanna Weyerman, the first wife of the Dutch Governor Godfried Weyerman who died on 28th March 1754 AD recalls the possession by the Dutch of St. Angelo Fort. The canons used by the Portuguese and the British have been affixed on the merinos and bastions of the fort walls pointing toward the sea. Visiting hours at the fort is between 8am to 6pm every day. A visit to the fort in the mornings and early evenings is advised as it can get quite hot during the middays and afternoons. The fort has been very well maintained, with manicured gardens, flower beds and thankfully not littered by the tourists. It is quite a peaceful tourist spot free of noisy people. You can stop by at the ice cream vendors and taste the flavor of local ice creams there. There are no entrance fee charged to enter St. Angelo’s Fort, however you have to pay a minimal parking fee of Rs. 10.

Just next to the Fort St. Angelo, you will find a wall protruding from the fort separating the sea with the inland water that forms a natural fishing harbor called Mappila Bay. Since this bay connected with the Kolathunadu, (North Malabar) from Lakshwadeep with the other countries, this was a prominent port for trade during the regime of the Kolathiri.

Presently, the Mappila Bay has been converted into a modern fishing harbor under the Indo-Norwegian Treaty that was signed during a joint venture between the two nations. You will find the latest and advance fishing equipment being are used here.

Mapila Bay

Just next to the Fort St. Angelo, you will find a wall protruding from the fort separating the sea with the inland water that forms a natural fishing harbor called Mappila Bay. Since this bay connected with the Kolathunadu, (North Malabar) from Lakshwadeep with the other countries, this was a prominent port for trade during the regime of the Kolathiri.

Presently, the Mappila Bay has been converted into a modern fishing harbor under the Indo-Norwegian Treaty that was signed during a joint venture between the two nations. You will find the latest and advance fishing equipment being are used here.

How to reach St. Angelo Fort

The St. Angelo Fort is situated next to the DSC Cantonment. The routes are well marked. It is advisable to hire a private vehicle from your hotel or a travel agency to visit this fort as it is located on an off beat track. The fort is around 3kms from the Kannur city.

Kochi Restaurant Guide at a glance

Text by: Tanya Munshi

Kochi Restaurant Guide at a glance

Pai Dosa

No trip to Kochi is complete without stepping into the Pai Dosa. On MG Road, just next to Sankar's book store, in a narrow lane is a little place called Pi Dosa, known for its 61 types of dosas and is mostly open beyond 12 midnight. From lahsoon dosa, egg dosa or bull's-eye dosa, it's amazing how one can be so creative with dosa. After a late night movie at Sridhar, this is where all the youngsters head to. If you're not too bothered about the ambiance, help yourself to a plastic chair and relish mammoth size dosa with mouth watering chutneys.

Upstairs 

Kochi is an amalgamation of cuisines from all over India and the world. If you're looking for authentic Italian cuisine, then go to Upstairs in Fort Kochi, run by an Indian and Italian couple who take pride in serving authentic Italian cuisines. 

Kasi Art Cafe

Kasi Art Cafe is a hang out place for most of the art lovers, artists and film makers. Not so much for the night life, but one must visit Kasi Art Cafe. 

Fort Kochi area

Fort Kochi is also a popular place for dinners. There are plenty of ‘You buy we cook’ shacks were you can buy up fresh fish and give it to one of these shacks who will cook it for you for an extra charge.

Almost every corner of Fort Kochi has a delightful restaurant or shack. From Chariot, Salt-n-Pepper, Tea Pot, Dal Roti and of course the 'You buy we cook' shacks you will not run out of options. 

Pure Vegetarian Food

For pure vegetarian food, head to Bharat Tourist Home (BTH at Wellington Island) and Dwarka(MG Road) are absolutely amazing. 

North Indian Cuisines

For North Indian cuisines - head to Tandoor and Kebab House on MG Road. Tandoor is famous for its lip-smacking tava chicken and garlic naan, while Kebab House has a lovely assortment of kebabs. 

Biryani 

For authentic biryani, visit Kayee's opposite Exhibition Grounds for vegetarian and non-vegetarian briyani served with accompaniments. 

Chinese 

For Chinese, head to Chinese Dragon and The Wok on MG road. 

Continental

If you're looking for burgers, sizzlers or steaks head to the Attic opposite Bay Pride Mall. 

Top end restaurants and hotels

Top end restaurants and hotels that one must visit are - Hotel Casino, Taj Malabar, Avenue Regent and Avenue Centre. The buffets here are total value for money, especially if you're looking for a complete south Indian fare and want to taste a bit of everything. 

Shawarmas

Visit GCDA where you can try out Shawarmas from a couple of fast food joints. 

Food Court

There's an Abaad Food Court in Bay Pride Mall, which is also pretty good and has - north Indian, south Indian and Chinese cuisines on the offer. Bay Pride Mall also has a Barista and on MG Road, you can stop by for a cuppa at Cafe Coffee Day.

Coffee Shop & Lounge bars

Cocoa Tree is a popular teen hangout which is open till 12 midnight. Don’t miss out Loungevity – the pub at Avenue Regent, on MG. Both Cocoa Tree and Loungevity are owned by Avenue Regent. These are frequented mostly youngsters, tourists and naval officers and families. 

Published in Yatra.com

Link: http://www.raahi.com/travel-guides/kochi/where-to-eat.html#pixbody

Travel> Kerala> Thekkady/ Kumily/ Periyar

Image: Planters house at Connemera Tea Garden, Thekkady
Image by: Anil R

Text by: Tanya Munshi

One of the most picturesque locations in Kerala, a trip to Thekkady, Kumily and Periyar is ideal for a long weekend. It is one of my personal favourite destinations in Kerala. I had visited Thekkady, Periyar and Kumily during a school vacation, several years ago. Monsoons are the best time to visit Kerala as that's the time the state looks even more beautiful.

About the place

Set amidst the beautiful Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is an ideal setting to spot some wildlife on a boat safari with fellow tourists. We spotted from the Asiatic Elephants, Monitor Lizard, Bisons and a herd of Chittal or Spotted Deer during our boat safari. In such cases, keeping a high zoom lens camera in hand is ideal to be able to capture the fauna in the wild. While Thekkady is known for its spices, Periyar is known for its most beautiful man-made lake, set amidst the forest.

Thekkady also offers amazing nature trails and trekking with the help of tour guides from the forest lodges that you put up in. While on the trek, you must visit the Cross Mountain, as it is so named of the only cross present here and from here you get to see one of the most breathtaking views ever.

Apart from the safari, you can also visit the spice gardens and tea, coffee and cocoa plantations nearby. Making a trip to the Mangladevi Temple and the Mullaiperiyar Dam are also a good idea if you have enough time. Not to forget that in Kumily you can visit their market for tourists that offer handloom, spices, rosewood and sandalwood, batiks, silks and antiques.

How to get there
By road, it is about 115 km from Kottayam and 185 kms from Kochi. You can hire private vehicles from your tour operator, the airport or contact local private taxi operators in Kochi.

Cochin to Kottayam will take you around 2 hrs by road and then to Thekkady a couple of hours more hours on road. The second part of your travel may take a little longer due to the ghat section.

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Hotels

http://hotels.kerala-tourism.org/thekkady-hotels.html

http://www.thekkady.com/htm/hotellist.php

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Websites

http://www.thekkady.com/htm/loc.htm

http://www.periyartigerreserve.org/

Travel> Kerala> Wayanad

Image: Chemdra Peak Wayanad
Image by: Dhruvaraj

Text by: Tanya Munshi

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Wayanad
Looking for an ideal destination for hiking and trekking, Wayanad is the place to be. Famous for its home-stays, tea, coffee, rubber and spice plantations, Wayanad is a perfect weekend getaway for the adventurous spirit in you.
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About the place
Trekkers can hop on to their trail to the Chembra Peak which is around 18 kms away, the Banasura Sagar Dam near Padinharathara, which also 18 kms away, and the Meenmutty Waterfalls which is about 40 kms from Kalpetta.

Don’t miss the Pookote Lake which is an ideal picnic spot where you can also go for boat cruises in the lake. If you wish to visit some beautiful coffee plantations, then plan a trip to the Manathavady, which is about 110 kms from Calicut.

Apart from monumental temples such as the Thirunelly and Valliyurkavu Bhagawathi temples, you can also visit the bird-watching centre of Pakshippathalam. Also don’t miss the Ambukuthi Hills to see the Edakkal caves formed by natural rock-cut formations. Once in Waynad, you can make it a point to visit the famous Ananthaatha Jain Temple at Puliyarmala, which is located on the slope of the Vellarimala Hill. This temple bears testimony of the Jain population of this region of the yesteryears. It is a must visit to see the mirrors inside the temple that reflect hundreds of beautiful patterns of the temple icons.
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How to get there
Wayanad is well connected by most state run buses. In fact, Wayanad is head quartered in Kalpetta which is well linked to towns in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Karnataka.

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Air: The nearest airport to Wayanad is Kozhikode, Calicut - about 100 kms. You can also reach Wayanad from Cochin International Airport, which is about around 300 kms.

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Rail: The nearest railhead is at Calicut - about 110 kilometers from Wayanad.

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Hotels

http://www.hotelskerala.com/wayanad.htm

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Website
http://www.beautifulkerala.com/coco/redcarpet/wynad.php

http://www.wayanad.com/

Travel> Kerala> Idukki

Image: Mattuppetty Dam Munnar
Image by: Dhruvaraja

Text by: Tanya Munshi

Do the mountains and thick forests beckon the peace starved soul in you? Then a trip to Idukki is a must. Idukki is known for its hydroelectric power projects where more than 60% of entire Kerala state’s electricity needs are met, and more than half of Idukki is protected as forest reserve.

About the place
With mountains at the height of 2,500 to 5,000 feet above sea level, Idukki has enough reasons to make your holiday memorable. Known for the 1500 sq ft Idukki Wildlife Sanctuary and the Idukki reservoir, this place is a photographer’s delight.

Apart from being a home to a variety of plants and wildlife, this forest also has sandalwood, rosewood and other exotic variety of wood. Lush green valleys, streams and mountains complete the picture of ideal weekend getaway.

How to get there
Like all places in and around Kochi, Idukki is well connected by good roads. The NH49 is the main highway connecting Idduki to other parts of the state. It is about 40 kms from Thodupuzha.

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Air: Nearest airport from Idukki is the Cochin International Airport which is about 132kms.

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Rail: Nearest railway station is Kottayam which is about 133kms away.
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Hotels in Idukki
http://www.hotelskerala.net/kerala_idukki.htm
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Websites
http://www.idk.kerala.gov.in/

http://www.idukki.com/home.htm

Travel> Kerala> Kozhikode

Image: Kappad beach, Calicut, of da Gama fame.
Image by: Mujib

Text by: Tanya Munshi
One of the prime commercial centres in its yesteryears, Kozhikode now opens up its natural beauty of the greenery, beaches and historical sites for one and all.

About the place
Described as the ‘great province of Malabar’, by the famed explorer Marco Polo, today, Calicut’s (the other name for Kozhikode), historical monuments bear testimony of the once enormous wealth that existed here. From a whole lot of condiments and spices, to ivory and wood, it attracted traders mostly from Europe to reap the benefits of Kozhikode.

Kozikode today offers tonic for the eyes when you set your sights on the lush green forests around the Tusharagiri Waterfalls. Surrounded by rubber, pepper, ginger and other spice plantations with flora and fauna giving you company makes Kozhikode an ideal weekend destination.

While on a visit here, you can also make a trip to the famed 14th century Tali Temple, Krishna Menon Museum, Pazhassiraja Museum, the fishing harbours of ancient Kerala at Beypore and a pleasant Kappad beach to name a few. You can also make trip to Dolphin Point, Malabar Houseboats and Kadalundi Bird Sanctuary as well. Last but not the least, a visit to the Kalaman Para Maruthilavu Tourist Spot, which is a beautiful forest area, located 50 kms away from Kozhikode City in the Kozhikode-Wynad National Highway at Chippilithodu.

How to get there
State run buses such as the KSRTC buses ply frequently. By road, Kozhikode is about 180 kms from Kochi.
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Air: There are daily flights to Kozhikode. The nearest airport from Kozhikode is Karipur, which is 23 kms from Kzhikode town.

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Rail: Nearest railway station which is Kozhikode railway station is 19kms away.

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Hotels

http://www.hotelskerala.com/kozhikode.htm

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Websites

http://www.kozhikode.com/

http://wikitravel.org/en/Kozhikode

Travel> Cherai Beach, Kerala

Image1: Footloose

Image2: Sunset at Cherai Beach

Image3: Gold rush
Images by: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi
A cosy 15km long beach spot, Cherai Beach is around 26 to 36kms from Ernakulam. This beach is one of my favourite spots, for the homely Cherai Beach Resorts. A drive up to Cherai Beach is incomplete without chicken pakodas and tea at this beach resort. You can park your car inside the resort premises, grab a bite and as you go outside the main gate and walk right into the beach. Don’t miss the new 400m walkway and High Mask Lamps at Cherai Beach.

From Fort Kochi, my husband and I would take our car in the barge/ ferry and cross the channel to Vypeen Island. From there the beach is hardly half an hour.

How to get there:

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Best time to visit: All year round

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Distance: 26 to 36kms from Ernakulam and 20-30kms from Cochin Airport.

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By road: From Irinjalakkuda, Cherai Beach is about an hour’s drive. The road becomes narrow as you reach Cherai. From Cochin international airport, take a pre-paid taxi.

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By ferry: You can opt for a ferry from Fort Kochi, just next to the Chinese fishing nets and cross the channel to go to Vypeen Island.

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By bus: You can also hop on to a bus from Ernakulam to Paravur and then another bus or auto rickshaw from Paravur to Cherai Beach.

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Personally, I recommend, hiring a private taxi or driving down is the best way to enjoy your break.

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Hotels:
Cherai Beach Resorts
Cherai, Vypin Island,
Kochi - 683514.
Ph : +91 - 484 - 2416949, 2481818, 3297651, 3253101
Fax : +91 - 484 - 2417333
Mobile : 98472 31400
Email: enquiry@cheraibeachresorts.com and reservation@cheraibeachresorts.com

Travel> Kerala > Alleppey

Image: View from our boat
Image by: Tanya Munshi
Image Copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi
Every year, the state of Kerala attracts hoards of Indian and foreign tourists to its beautiful locations all within a single state. Be it a backwater trip, to a sanctuary, to sightseeing or a honeymoon destination; Kerala is a one stop tourism destination of all kinds. Not that Kochi is not beautiful in its own accord, but with the coming long weekend why not plan something relaxing, adventurous or a mix of both?

Let's begin with...
Alleppey
A visit to the Venice of India is a treat to your eyes and soul. Known to treat tourists in beautiful houseboats while taking them along a gentle cruise on the backwaters, attracts tourists from all over the world. What’s more? The Kerala Snake Boat race, alone attracts hordes of localities and tourists to witness this pulsating event. Being in India, and more so in Kochi, visiting Alleppey is as good as a hop skip and jump!

About the place
Founded in the late 1700s, by the Dewan of Travencore, Alappuzha which is the Malayalam name for Alleppey, a lone canal divided the sand from the backwaters and the sea. This led to a gradual increase of commercial hubs, waterways, etc inviting merchants from other parts of the world and the country to sell goods and services.

Serving as one of the prime centre for coir, coconut oil, copra or dried coconut, as well as a centre for fishing makes Alleppey a prime tourist and commercial destination. While on a cruise don’t miss the beautiful cottages, lined with coconut trees all reflecting on the clear Alleppey backwaters. Some of the other must see’s are— Mullackal Bhagavathi Temple, a witness to the production of coir and probably a shopping spree at the coir stores selling a variety of carpets and mats.

I fondly remember visiting Alleppey with my parents and taking a backwater ride on a boat. Coming from a city like Mumbai, Alleppey was a unique experience for us, showcasing that there is a world more beautiful than we can imagine.

How to get there
Alleppey is well connected by road, where the NH47 forms the main artery connecting Alleppey and most towns by state transport buses. By houseboat or motorboat, Alleppey is linked through the backwaters to Quilon (8 hrs) and Changanassery, Kottayam (2.5 hrs), Cochin (5.5 hrs) , Kumarakom, Kavalam and Chengannur and Kuttanad places.

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Air: Cochin International Airport is the closest to Alleppey, which is about 64 kms. If you plan to visit Alleppey from Trivandrum Airport then the distance from there would be around 159kms.

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Rail: The nearest railway stations from Alleppey are at Cochin and Trivandrum.

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Boat: It will take about 5.5 hours from Cochin, 2.5 hours from Kottayam and 8 hours from Quilon.

Hotels

http://www.hotelskerala.com/alappuzha.htm

http://www.kerala-hub.com/kerala-hotels/hotels-in-alleppey-kerala.html

Website
http://www.beautifulkerala.com/coco/redcarpet/alleppey.php

http://www.keralagreenery.org/alappuzha.html

Travel> Kumarakom: The Houseboat Haven

Image1: Boatman

Image2: Perched Cormorant

Image3: Fellow tourists

Image4: Kerala Houseboat

Image5: Toddy, Karimeen Curry & Tapioca
Image copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi
On a trip to Kerala, it doesn't take too much planning to visit Kumarakom. A few hours' drive from Kochi, Kumarakom is a fun place to visit. Famous for its enviable location on Vembanad Lake at the mouth of the backwaters and its beautiful houseboats, Kumarakom is a place like you have never been to before.

En route to Kumarakom, a stopover at the Indian Coffee House at Vaikom is a must to enjoy dosas, bread omelette and traditional South Indian coffee. We started our journey from Kochi at around nine in the morning and reached Kumarakom by 11 am.

We stopped over at the Kerala Tourism Department Corporation owned Motel Aram, which has clean toilets, ample parking space, decent rooms and clean restaurants. From there, we hired a private six-seater motorboat for Rs 600 for a two-hour backwater tour, which we considered a steal, especially for a group like ours. In fact, the KTDC also rents out boats for Rs 550 per hour.
It's better to stop over at this KTDC motel to rent boats as it is more organised and less expensive compared to other places, where you may have to bargain and the reliability may be in question.

Floating hotels
A day or two on a houseboat is an experience of a lifetime and is perfect for a break or an anniversary surprise. The room charge per night for an air-conditioned and a non-air-conditioned houseboat is Rs 20,000 and Rs 10,000 respectively, during peak season, which runs from mid-October till March.

This includes breakfast, lunch and dinner, while sailing down the peaceful backwaters. Meals include the fresh catch of the day fetched by the boat's cook. Each boat has a bedroom, living room and a dining area. The check-out time is usually 12 noon. For bookings, one can get in touch with KTDC or private tour operators to get the best deal. The off-season rates are a steal. Just Rs 5,000.

Tuck into this spread
One of us expressed the desire to taste the authentic toddy, tapioca and karimeen curry. So, Sukumaran took us to a restaurant on the shore. We ordered toddy, a popular local drink in Kerala that is fermented coconut wine, extracted from the coconut palm.

I guess one has to develop a taste for toddy, as the sour flavour and aroma kind of masked the coconut wine. My husband relished the toddy, as it blended perfectly with the tapioca and karimeen curry, My favourite dish though was the karimeen curry -- a red tangy spicy curry, prepared with the pearl spotted fish, or the karimeen.

The curry is prepared using a small dried up fruit known as cocumstar, which offers a unique tangy flavour to the curry. The cocumstar is removed after cooking and is not a part of the main dish. The tapioca or kappa, a light snack, which tasted somewhat like yam. Our total bill came to Rs 170.

Attend a 'boat warming' party
On our way back, we chanced upon a 'boat warming party'; the locals were innaugurating a new house boat. We finished our backwater trip in about four hours and we paid Sukumaran for the extended hours, which he took quite reluctantly. We picked up souvenirs -- miniature versions of beautiful houseboats -- that ranged from Rs 200 to Rs 750 from the KTDC souvenir store.
On the way back, we had lunch at the famous K R Bakes, which serves a wide range of small eats. It is especially famous for its chicken and fish dishes.

How to get there
By road
Kumarakom is 60 km from Kochi and 16 km from Kottayam.

By air
There are daily flights from Mumbai and Chennai and connecting flights from New Delhi and other places in India to Kochi, Kozhikode and Trivandrum.

Kumarakom is 175 km from Trivandrum International Airport and 85 km from Cochin International Airport.

By rail
Kochi is well-connected by rail with Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai and with other smaller metros.

Web sites: www.ktdc.com/WaterScapes.htm
www.kumarakom.com/howto.htm

Published in Rediff.com, on November 15, 2006
Link: http://in.rediff.com/getahead/2006/nov/15slide.htm

Travel & Food> Cafés and Cigars at Fort Kochi

Image1: Solar Café

Image2: A peek inside

Image3: Inside Kashi Café


Image4: Entrance of Solar Café

Image5: Inside Solar Café

Image6: Window at Solar Café
Image copyright: Tanya Munshi

Text by: Tanya Munshi
Fort Kochi
If you want to spend an entire day leisurely walking around or simply reading a book at an art cafe, consider Fort Kochi, a mere 9 kilometres from MG Road, Ernakulam.
Apart from enjoying the food and line up of curio shops, you could watch locals pulling up huge Chinese fishing nets, or take a walk along the fish market. Although prices are sky high, you could probably buy a couple of delicious Karimeen or Spotted Pearl Fish, and give it to the shack owners alongside to cook -- steamed, fried or in a curry.

Fort Kochi is mostly famous among foreign tourists for its home stays and cuisine. But, it has preserved a certain old world charm that lavish hotels and restaurants, with their sterile environment, simply cannot offer. The streets of Fort Kochi are narrow and cobbled, lined on both sides with trees and beautifully maintained heritage houses. Most of these have been converted to part hotels or home stays, with art galleries and restaurants for tourists to enjoy seafood and beer.

A Café with a difference
On one of our Sunday drives, we chanced upon Solar Cafe -- a different kind of art cafe.
The blackboard at the entrance announced its daily menu, along with timings for cookery classes and several workshops, including one on mask-painting. The walls were yellow and red, their peeling paint adding a rustic tinge to the ambience. While a World Space radio station played Indian classical music, we ordered two Farmer's Omelettes, which came with generous amounts of tomato, cucumber and spring onions (Rs 50).
We also got wheat grain bread and Himalayan salt, ground with sesame seeds. Finally, a pot of soothing English tea (Rs 30) made for a perfect breakfast. An average English breakfast for two, priced at Rs 130, is not a bad idea at all!

Colour therapy at work
While waiting for the bill, we took a stroll along the first floor, which was a pleasant surprise.
With typical Kerala coir carpets on the wooden floor, the white walls were adorned with paintings by several local artists. The place was peaceful. The windows, overlooking the channel with little fishing boats on them, completed the look. We walked into the adjoining Blue Room, primarily adorned with blue upholstery and blue paintings.
Maybe it was colour therapy at work, as this room was calm and soothing, classical music playing in the background.

Dine on a sewing table
On another Sunday, we experimented with another popular stop -- Cafe Kashi. The highlight here is they have converted sewing tables to dining tables, with antique furniture in their gallery and restaurant. We opted for the Breakfast of the Day (Rs 70) -- a cheese and tomato omelette, brown bread, and a dollop of butter.

More hot spots
On a lazy walk, post breakfast, we noticed a shop selling Cuban Cigars, a store called Kapitan for cold cuts and fresh meat, and a store called Shop 'n' Save, catering to everyday needs of the neighbourhood. We took a break from the sun and stopped by Vasco Cafe, next to a tidy bookstore called Idiom. Over a cup of masala chai, we read the morning paper and took a peek inside. It made for one of the best weekends spent in complete leisure.
So, the next time you're in Fort Kochi, wander into an art cafe, relish the food, enjoy the ambience and maybe you can pick up a painting to remind you of the day you broke away from the ordinary.

Fort Kochi Fact File
1. Kochi is the commercial capital of Kerala. It is well connected by rail, road and airways with major cities across India.
2. You can cover the length and breadth of Fort Kochi in about an hour.
3. Once in town, hire a cab from the airport, ask your hotel to organise reliable transport, or take the ferry from the main boat jetty or terminus jetty near Willington Island.
4. Fort Kochi has several sightseeing options -- the Dutch Palace, Jewish Synagogue, Chinese fishing nets, and a whole lot of Portuguese architecture.
5. Cuisines includes North Indian, Keralite, Chinese, European and continental food. If you are non-vegetarian, you are in luck. Indulge in a variety of seafood and meat.

How to get there
By rail: Ernakulam Railway Station is 1.5 kilometres from the main boat jetty.
By air: Cochin International Airport is 50 kilometres from Fort Kochi.
Web sites: http://www.keralatourism.org/, www.ernakulam.com/fortkochi.htm

Published in Rediff.com, on November 7, 2007
Link: http://specials.rediff.com/getahead/2006/nov/07slide.htm