Travel> Coorg (Part 1)

Image courtesy: Yatra.com

Text by: Tanya Munshi

Kodagu, popularly known as Coorg, is one of the most frequented weekend hotspots in Karnataka. This anglicized name – Coorg came into existence after the East India Company took over Kodagu in 1834. Madikeri being the district capital and the main town is located at an altitude of 1067 meters above sea level. Often referred to as the ‘Scotland of the East’, Coorg is famous for its coffee plantation and Pork Pandi Curry. Apart from the chicory free coffee, Coorg is also known for spices such as black pepper and cardamom. What makes Coorg unique is that it is not yet connected by rail or air. Tucked away in the scenic Western Ghats, it is 260 kms from Bangalore, 120kms from Mangalore and 120kms from Mysore. Its forests are also home to the Pushpagiri Wildlife Sanctuary, Nagarahole National Park, Talakaveri Wildlife Sanctuary and the Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary.

According to the local language, Kodava means ‘blessed by Mother Kaveri’. Their Huthri festival which is celebrated during the months of November to December is unique as it marks the end of the rice planting tenure in September and commemorates the Kodava warrior tradition. The Kodavas (Coorgis) are a martial race, and hence exempt by the Indian Arms Act from possessing a license for a firearm within the district. It has produced many famous personalities in the Indian armed forces like Field Marshal Cariappa, who was one of the two Indian armed forces officers to hold the highest rank of Field Marshal, and General K. S. Thimayya who was the Chief of Army Staff.

Pandit Nehru had once aptly stated about the region, “Coorg has given great Generals to the Indian Army. It is noted for its choicest coffee and if I am permitted to add one more to these specialties, I can mention that Coorg is famous for its beautiful and comely women.”

History

Kodagu's recorded history dates back to 9th and 10th century, which reveals that it was ruled by several kingdoms in southern India including Pandyas, Cholas, ending with the Hoysala rule in the 14th century, after which the Vijaynagar Empire took over.

After the defeat of the Vijaynagar kingdom by the Deccan Sultans in 1565, the Nayaks started ruling Kodagu. After the fall of the Changavas, a prince from the Ikkeri or Bednur family dressed as a Lingayat priest settled at Haleri, close to Madikeri. Gradually with time, he gained authority and power and created a base to be ruled by the Lingayat Rajas. As the Lingayats merged their power in Kodagu, they made Haleri their capital, and established the Paleri (Haleri) dynasty, which ruled the region for 200 years. It was under the Paleri dynasty that Kodagu became an independent kingdom.

Haider Ali rose to power in Mysore during the 18th century and tried to capture Kodagu. Much later his son Tipu Sultan, in an attempt to fulfill his father’s dream to seize Kodagu, held the prince Dodda Vira Rajendra of Kodagu captive. With the help of the loyal subjects of Kodava, the prince managed to escape from captivity, defeated Tipu Sultan and recovered Kodava.

From 17th to 19th century, the Wodeyars ruled over Kodagu till the British took over in 1834. Dodda Vira Rejendra Wodeyar and the East India Company signed an agreement in 1790, whereby the later would provide protection to the Kodavas from Tipu Sultan. In 1858, Colonel Fraser was appointed the first Chief Commissioner after the British government took over from the East Indian Company.

Much later, a writer of the Gazetteer of Mysore and Coorg, Lewis Rice traced the lineage up to 1834 when the East India Company overthrew the last Paleri King.

After independence, Kodagu was declared a ‘C’ State in 1952 and in 1956 Coorg was recognized as a district of Karnataka.

Getting Around

Kodagu is a district/region comprising four major towns – Madikeri, Virajpet, Somwarpet and Kushalnagar. All of them are within 30 odd km off each other with coffee plantations in between. Buses and taxis are best mode of transport to move around the region. Within Madikeri, the capital, auto rickshaws are ideal. Most places within town can also be covered by foot.

Tourist Traps in the City

Though there are auto rickshaws available in plenty, it is highly recommended that you bargain for a reasonable fare to your hotel or a tourist spot.

Local Custom

The Kodavas are not known to follow any particular religion. While they consider the Kaveri River as their godmother, the Kodavas believe in ancestor worship, which is personified in the 'Ainemane' or ancestral house of an Okka or family, which is believed to provide protection and a spiritual guide to the family. Each family has a special place assigned to worship their ancestors, as the Karanava i.e the spirit of the deceased ancestor of a family holds an important spiritual place in each family.

The dead ancestor of a family, the Karanava or sprit, has an important place in the spiritual life of his descendants and each family’s ancestral house has an assigned place for the worship of ancestors. Another form of ancestor worship may also involve the offering of meat and liquor to ancestors.

Their Huthri/ Puttari festival which is celebrated during the months of November to December is unique as it marks the end of the rice planting tenure in September and commemorates the Kodava warrior tradition with the festival of Kailpoud. During Puttari, fresh sheaves of paddy are cut on a full moon night and brought to the house by a male member of the family dressed in their ceremonial attire. The sheaves are bound in leaves and tied to various auspicious portions of the house like the front door and the storehouse such as the granary.

Kailpoud is an annual festival of arms that is held towards the end of the monsoon. During this festival, the Kodavas worship their weapons and hold shooting competitions ( where a coconut is tied to a tree) and other sporting events.

Their wedding ceremonies or mangalas are most unique as they are held in their ancestral homes and solemnized not by a priest, but by the elders in the family. It will be interesting to note that the bride gets to decide if she wants to continue living with her new husband. A few days after the wedding, when she visits her maternal home with the husband and if she decides to stay back, the wedding is off. Kodava marriages do not believe in the system of dowry.

At the demise of an adult family member, the news is sent to the village by a firing of two consecutive gunshots, while a birth of a boy is declared by the firing of one gunshot.

Their traditional costumes, especially for the men folk are extremely smart and gorgeous with turbans, black overcoats, sashes and jewellery, while the women wear the sari in a unique fashion unlike any other part of the country.

Shopping

Shopping in Coorg is quite a different experience, its not like a regular tourist spot where you pick up decorative souvenirs. A trip to Coorg is incomplete without Chicory free coffee, honey and spices such as Cardamom and Pepper, oranges during season and home made candles. Visit the local shops in the market area selling pure ground coffee, while you relish a steaming hot cupper, pick up some coffee to take back home.

Communications

BSNL and Reliance have wide coverage in Munnar. However data cards can go for toss owing to the heights and altitudes. However, BSNL has better connectivity than Reliance.

Travel> How Safe is your Hotel?

It is the holiday season. Many of you are probably set to spend the new year in an exotic destination. Right? It might not be a bad idea to give a thought to safety before you head out either by yourself or with your family/ dear ones. Be it a holiday or a business trip, your safety and security is very important for a peaceful holiday.

What you need to know about your hotel
~ Almost every hotel will have a safety clause posted in its rooms, saying the hotel will not be held responsible for any theft. This applies to things stored in the in-room safes too. "You can check on the hotel policy by calling them up while making your bookings. If you are just checking in, ask about this at the reception," says Anuj Gemawat, a hotel management graduate and hotelier from Bangalore.
~ Says Andrew Kelly, security and safety manager of the Grand Hyatt, Dubai, "Most exclusive hotels follow (a policy of) non-disclosure as far as their guests' identities are concerned." Also, he adds, many modern day hotels do public area surveillance and employ plain clothes security personnel.
~ In addition, rooms are secured and access is recorded and 'auditable'. This means, a client can request for a 'lock audit' if, for some reason, he needs to check who has accessed his room.
~ While hiring staff, most hotels do background screenings to ensure maximum security for its customers and property.

How to keep your valuables safe
~ "Unless you are travelling to a function like a wedding or a party, carrying too much jewellery is avoidable," says Gemawat.
~ Kelly adds, "Travellers' cheques, passports, etc, should be (kept) secure in the hotel's safe deposit box rooms. The safe deposit boxes there are like those in a bank. Each requires two keys to access and has a sign in/ sign out facility."
~ It's best to carry your passport and money in a belt pouch, so that it doesn't land up in the wrong hands. Or leave it in the vault at the hotel reception.
~ Always carry traveller's cheques. "There is yet another option," says Gemawat: "You can avail of prepaid debit cards, which cannot be used without your authorisation. And they come with a safety cover. It's far better than cash."
~ "Do not carry loads of money unnecessarily when lounging by the pool or inside the hotel. Keep it secure in your safe. Take what you need. Sign most of your bills in your room. Keep copies of signed bills to address any disputes during check out," adds Kelly.

Safety tips for single travellers, especially women
~ "Never step out into new territory without keeping someone informed back home or at work," says Gemawat.
~ "If you feel someone is offering too much unwanted attention, bring the matter to the attention of someone senior in the hotel," says Kelly.
~ While using a hotel's facilities (such as the pool), choose a spot within view of attendants. This ensures quick service should someone bother you. By raising a hand, you can let others know you need attention.
~ "Do not offer your room number or information that you are travelling alone to anyone (unless you want the attention). You can always say your partner is joining you shortly," adds Kelly.

Safety tips for travellers with kids, elderly relations and pets
With kids
~ Always carry basic first aid in your travel kit.
~ "Explain to your kids the importance of staying together, especially in a mall or in an amusement park. Tell them about the consequences of getting lost," says Gemawat.
~ Ensure you keep some sort of identification in your child's pocket -- name, telephone, name of the hotel you are staying at, your cell, the number of someone who can contact you and other emergency numbers.
~ "Hotels may offer a baby-sitting service or a child minder," says Kelly, "A child minder is someone who only watches the kid but does not engage with them and is rarely trained to deal with any type of emergency or situation. It is advisable to check in advance about the facilities available and how your child will be looked after," says Kelly.

With elderly
While traveling with elders who have mobility issues, check with the hotel you are heading to about wheelchair access or lifts. "You would be surprised as to how some really good hotels overlook such really sensitive issues," says Gemawat.

With pets
~ When it comes to pets, always check before you leave, as most hotels may not allow pets.
~ Inform the hotel well in advance that they may need to cater for a pet. State the breed of the pet, vaccination details etc, and carry the relevant papers along. It would be best to get a signed letter from your vet that your pet will cause no harm.
~ There are hotels that take care of a pet like any other guest.

A last word
Travel light. Avoid carrying unnecessary items. Never leave things lying around in the hotel room, at the hotel restaurants, at the poolside or the gym. Keep valuables locked up.
And yes, enjoy your trip!

Published in Rediff.com, on December 22, 2006
Link: http://www.rediff.com/getahead/2006/dec/22hotel.htm